Saturday night- Had dinner and drinks with Yves Reme and friends, including the Seabees. Then went to a party at a renovated colonial mansion in the city, the Casa Amarelha. It was hosted by Nora, an Argentinian architect who lives and works in Sao Tome. The party was attended by about 30 people representing Sao Tome, Portugal, Spain, America, France, Switzerland, Taiwan, Argentina, Rwanda, Kenya, and the Azores – foreign aid workers and teachers mostly. Giant speakers played music from all over the world, and a dance floor was set up in the front lawn. Everyone seemed to know everyone, and I realized I’d stepped into a Santomean subculture of expatriots.
Sunday- Met with the English Students Association of Sao Tome and Principe, on waterfront in front of the high school. They have 150 students interested in taking English courses during school breaks and even have arranged teachers, but are in need of funding to purchase teaching materials. Specifically, they are looking for $300 to purchase English materials to begin teaching immediately this summer. Could be a future endeavor of UIUC. Later toured a chocolate factory/shop with Yves Reme and a handful of the Seabees. It is run some very serious Frenchmen and use locally harvested and processed chocolate. They spoke of Hershey’s the way architects and planner talked about Wal-Mart. I guess everyone has their cause in life.
Monday- Began work on designing a house for Alzira, the doctor with whom I stayed during my first week in Sao Tome. I am making friends at the Café Companhia and enjoy working there in a social atmosphere. The owner, MJ, is a Portuguese-American from Berkeley, CA, and goes out of her way to introduce me to people, which I greatly appreciate.
Tuesday- Toured Voice of America, accompanied by Helcio. First walked through the technical facilities, including power plant, control center, and antennae, which broadcast radio programming in numerous languages, covering an area from South Africa to Algeria to Somalia and even parts of the Middle East. Sao Tome has one of the newest VOA broadcast stations in the world and can be picked up by a standard AM radio, as opposed to some older stations which only generate shortwave signals and are being phased out. Briefly met the new director, Ken Tripp, who was pleased to hear about UIUC’s involvement in Sao Tome.
I also met with a handful of U.S. embassy employees who have their office at VOA. Presented my project to them, and they were very impressed. Nelson de Assunçno works in the financial department of the embassy and was very interested in the project. He intends to put Jorge and me in contact with an American delegation who will be in Sao Tome later this month, to try to generate interest in this development project. U.S. development efforts in Sao Tome have been very limited and not very visible in the country. Much could be done to strengthen ties with this stable and geopolitically strategic African nation. Spoke with Nelson for a long time about American interests in Sao Tome and learned information for my research paper. I look forward to talking with him more.
The one visible effort the U.S. is making here is through the work of the Navy Seabees, who did construction work on two schools, built an operating room at the hospital, and are currently building a dock at the seaport. On the way out of VOA, I met Chris, a diver with the Seabees. He gave me a tour of their camp, on the VOA grounds. While it is certainly not the Miramar Hotel, they have everything they need to live comfortably, including their own power, food and communication equipment. The only thing they take from here is water.
In the afternoon visited James’ English class. Also spent time at the café, where I met a few people working with International Alert, an international political watchdog group with its base in London.
Wednesday- Was scheduled to have a meeting with the director of building projects at the Ministry of Infrastructure, but urgent labor issues at the airport demanded the attention of Jorge and the airport administration.Instead spent the day working on the design for the Doctor’s house and met with James to talk computers. Also had a great conversation with Phil Vernon, Director of Programmes– Africa & Peacebuilding Issues for International Alert. Discussed the geopolitical significance of Sao Tome and the urgent need to maintain citizen involvement in government decisions.
Thursday- Labor issues continued at the airport, so I continued work on the Doctor’s house. Also began preparing information to send to a professional architecture firm, should my airport project move toward realization. Attended the weekly happy hour at the Café, where I conversed with Portuguese, Spanish, and American friends. Arrived home to find out that our water tank had run empty and would not be filled until a truck came tomorrow afternoon. The Keynans were concerned at how fast the 7000 liter tank had been used up, and I asked myself, “When in the U.S. do we ever express concern over the rate with which we consume water?”
Friday- Continued labor issues; continued design on Alzira’s house. In the afternoon was invited by a friend to place basketball in the city. I was impressed by their level of play, and I’m sure they were not impressed with mine. These guys would hold their own very well on the streets of Chicago. In the evening met with Alzira to discuss her house. She generally likes the design, but it needs to be done in phases according to her financial situation. We discussed revisions and I will meet with her again soon. Was finally able to speak with Jorge in the evening, who expressed optimism at resolving the labor crisis at the airport and hopes to move on my project this week.